Rainbow Colors, Antelope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon is on Navajo land outside Page, Arizona — you go with a guide, and you pay a permit to be there at all. I had hours to kill waiting on the light, so I sat in the only dive bar in town, full of Navajo men, six dollars a pitcher. Someone rang the nautical bell at the end of the bar and the barkeep set a fresh pint in front of me. Who bought this? Joe, down at the end. I sent a pitcher back his way, and the bell rang again. I asked whether I might try something different this time. “Tradition is whatever's in front of you.” Another red ale arrived. Then the light came.

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