Beyond the Wall

Kirkjufell stripped to black and white — Iceland's most iconic mountain rendered in pure light and shadow. It is two hours out of Reykjavík through heavy rain, across flat volcanic plain grazed by sheep, and then the ground simply stands up. The shape is the work of ice: during the last glaciation the sheet flowed around it on both sides and left the peak standing above. Stare at the empty ground in front of it long enough and riders start coming south out of the cold.

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